I was born and raised in Massa, one of the two main cities of the area. Growing up here means I know both the charm and the struggles: this is one of the most beautiful corners of Italy, but unfortunately also one of the most expensive.
And I’m not the only one saying it — in fact, Massa-Carrara was the only Italian destination included in The New York Times’ “52 Places to Visit in 2024”.
So when visitors ask me: “Should I really pay double just to stay in Forte dei Marmi? Is it worth it?”
My answer is: yes and no.
Yes — because staying here for a week is absolutely worth it.
No — because you don’t necessarily need to base yourself in Forte dei Marmi to enjoy the same lifestyle.
👉 My top recommendation is to stay just 10–15 minutes away, in Ronchi or Cinquale. You’ll still enjoy the pine forest (pineta), the sea, and the relaxed vibe — but you’ll also save a little money. Keep in mind though: Versilia will always be pricier than the Italian average. The upside? In just 30 minutes you can reach it all: mountains, sea, and some of Tuscany’s most beautiful art cities. That’s why this area is so unique.
Where to stay
If you want convenience, look for a hotel or Airbnb within two streets of the seaside (lungomare). Trust me, being able to walk or bike to the beach is 100% worth it. It saves you from the nightmare of hunting for a parking spot in peak hours, and it’s just part of the local lifestyle. Here are some options you could consider:
- Hotel Cavalieri del Mare – Just 200m from the beach, this hotel is set in the historic Sforza villa and surrounded by pine trees. It feels quiet and authentic, while still being close to everything: you can hop on a bike and reach Forte dei Marmi in minutes, whether for a gelato or its iconic morning market. Plus, it’s fully celiac-friendly!
- Camping I Due Delfini – A lively campsite with plenty of activities if you’re looking for a more vibrant and cheaper option.
- Alternative stays: If you don’t mind driving everyday 40 minutes to the beach, towns like Pietrasanta are also a nice choice: artsy, small, and very Tuscan.
- Want something ultra-fancy, Chiara Ferragni–style? Then yes, stay in Forte dei Marmi… but expect to pay at least 2-3x more than in Ronchi.
- If you’re more into hiking than the beach, check out Brugiana, which offers beautiful mountain trails.
Where to eat
For food, my rule is: keep it local and simple.
- On the beach: many seaside “bagni” have their own restaurants. My favorite is Bagno Cavalieri del Mare, where I always order spaghetti alle vongole. Cozy, delicious, and right on the beach. (Note: you need to call in advance for gluten-free pasta).
- In town: I recommend heading to Pietrasanta. From 6pm it’s perfect for an aperitivo and dinner in its charming piazza. My favorite restaurant is Sementis: not cheap, but great food, lots of vegan options, and celiac-friendly. If you’d like to explore further, you’ll also find good restaurants in Marina di Massa, Forte dei Marmi, and even nearby Sarzana.
